Les Grangeons de l'Albarine "Altiesse en Paradis" Vin de France Blanc, Bugey, France 2022

FROM RIVE GAUCHE WINE CO.:

THE WINE: 100% Altesse. Lieu-dit En Paradis is on the western side of the Coteau d'Argis – the SW-facing vines were planted from 2002 to 2006 (by the previous owner) at the foot of the Roche de Narse on 30-35 degree slopes; the soil is poor with extremely rocky limestone scree (from the Bathonian age, middle Jurassic) lying over grey marl – "on paper, this is top terroir that can produce the finest mineral white wines, but hey time will tell!", comments Luc. Fermentation and 12-month ageing in sandstone ('grés') amphoras, the only addition of SO2 (10mg/l) occurs then, before bottling without filtration. This is altesse like no other or at least unlike any we've tasted before, the mouthfeel is packed with fine bitters and mineral salts, forming an almost tannic impression on the gums and the tip of the tongue – not to be missed by all the savagnin and chenin aficionados out there. For drinking now to 2028.

THE PRODUCER: Les Grangeons de l’Albarine is a one-man show run by Luc Bauer, a self-described paysan vigneron dedicated to producing authentic wines and protecting the environment of his home region. That objective involves reviving the viticultural area around the Coteau d’Argis—home to 247 acres of vines at the turn of the 20th Century but now largely deserted.

Bauer farms 6 acres split over several sites. The largest is a southwest-facing slope in the shadow of the Roche de Narse. There, afternoon sun drenches the rocky, white-chalk soil, which then captures heat to keep the vines warm into the night. He’s a firm practitioner of biodynamics, which he describes as an evidence-based methodology that involves all living organisms in an environment and the energies they exert on one another. Yes, he uses preparations 500 and 501 and syncs his vineyard and cellar work to the lunar calendar... but only because he has only ever seen positive results.