Julian Haart "JJ" Kabinett Riesling, Mosel, Germany 2024

FROM VOM BODEN:

THE WINE: 100% Riesling. This is sourced from vines in the Grand Cru Goldtröpfchen vineyard as well as Falkenberg which is located just above on the same slope. J.J. is both a nod to Julian’s son “Johann Josef” (also the name of his Grandfather and Great-Grandfather!) as well as a homage to the house style of J.J. Prüm, of which this ultra-light style Kabinett is reminiscent of. With 46g of RS this has an elegant interplay of sweetness and acidity, the push and pull of oppulance and tension.

THE PRODUCER: Julian’s first vineyard purchase was a very serious parcel, only around 8,000 square meters (0.8 hectares) right in the filet of the Grand Cru site Ohligsberg, just downstream from Julian’s hometown of Piesport. The following year (2011), Haart expanded the estate with two Grand Cru sites, the Goldtröpfchen and Schubertslay (photographed below), both in Piesport. The Goldtröpfchen parcels include terraces established in the early 20th century and the Schuberstlay, one of the smallest single-vineyards in all of the Mosel with only about one hectare under vine, flaunts ungrafted vines over 100 years old. This is serious terroir… and very labor-intensive, very expensive terroir to farm. So, beginning with vintage 2018 Julian handed the Schubertslay vineyard over to Keller. In return, with vintage 2018, Julian began making a small amount of wine from parcels that Keller helped him source in the Rheinhessen, including in the Frauenberg and Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott vineyards.