Domaine Robert Chevillon "Les Cailles" 1er Cru, Nuits-Saint-Georges, France 2021

FROM KERMIT LYNCH

THE WINE:

Les Cailles is derived from the word cailloux, or pebbles, not the common assumption that it is derived from the modern meaning, “quails”

Eastern sun exposure and 250-260 meters in altitude, with a grade between 7-8%

Soils are regularly plowed. Vines are only treated when necessary and naturally achieve low yields. Grapes fully de-stemmed

Primary fermentation in stainless steel cuves, and then wines are racked into barrels. Long, slow fermentations

Aged in barrel, 30% new oak. Bottled after approximately 20 months of aging

THE PRODUCER: Brothers Bertrand and Denis Chevillon are the fifth generation managers of this property in Nuits- Saint-Georges, which means they work the vines and make the wines. Their father Robert, for whom the domaine is named, is still active as well. Both brothers bring passion, experience, a tireless work ethic, and intensity to their work at the domaine. Tasting through their palate of Nuits- Saint-Georges is a venerable tour of the appellation. Their Passetoutgrain, a blend of Pinot and Gamay, is a worthy introduction and their rare (two barrels made) Nuits-Saint-Georges Blanc made from the “Pinot Gouges” is an exotic treasure that ages just as long as the domaine’s fabled reds. And their Bourgogne Aligoté, Bourgogne Chardonnay and Bourgogne Rouge are grown and vinified with the same care as their premier crus. It shows.

The track record of the Chevillon wines in the cellar is one of the most remarkable aspects of this storied domaine. We regularly have the good fortune to taste back through the past three decades of vintages of all the various premier crus and the wines always more than convincing—they are amongst Burgundy’s very best. In fact, I have often been more disappointed with grand cru bottlings than I am with the top-tier Chevillon premier crus. Indeed, Nuits-Saint-Georges does not officially have any grand cru vineyards, but we are convinced that Cailles, Vaucrains and Les Saint-Georges are firmly grand cru quality. This decision is currently in the hands of the appellation authorities but it is almost better if the status quo doesn’t change–that way we are assured to get grand cru quality at a premier cru price!