Denny Bini "Buzza" Frizzante, Emilia-Romagna, Italy NV

FROM PORTOVINO:

THE WINE: Spergola 95%, Malvasia di candia aromatica 5%. Ah, darling Spergola: The ancient grape variety native to Emilia Romagna that has persevered as a treasured wine medium throughout the Ages. Spergola carries historical reference as the choice bev of powerful noblewomen during the High and Late Middle Ages; centuries later, it has captured the hearts and minds of Emilia’s bottle fermented wine pundits and is championed by Denny Bini. During the 11th century, the politically-minded and military-strong Matilde di Canossa gifted Spergola wine to her favorite holy man, Pope Gregory VII. Spergola was in vogue again during the 15th century, favored by the Grand Duchess of Tuscany, Bianca Cappello, renowned for her beauty and intelligence. Denny Bini’s ‘Buzza’ confidently showcases Spergola in its traditional form, highlighting its delicate citrus herbal profile and misty glow.

THE PRODUCER: After too many years of industrially-produced mediocrity, Emilia is now home to a small but growing cell of artisanal producers who are farming carefully and returning to the metodo ancestrale (also know as Pet-Nat) of their great-grandfathers. Denny Bini is one of the humble heroes of this renaissance-revolution. Over the years, he has slowly been changing his career from historic cellar master of well-known Lambrusco estate to someone with his own vineyards and cellar of mostly metodo ancestrale wines.

Denny makes two Lambrusco we currently bring in: Spuma is his bottle-fermented metodo ancestral made from the geeky high-acid Sorbara grape, and an everyday drinking sparkling red Lambrusco from Emilia, that’ become affectionally and unofficially known as the ‘Festa’ or ‘Party’ label, owing to the big ol’ table of various types of people enjoying a raucous meal, and to the fact that it’s delicious, a touch bitter, and goes down easy if you don’t overthink it (kinda like most family gatherings). Denny’s a good person to visit to get a list of all the under the radar trattoria and agroturismi in the area, and an all around great guy. Look out for his bianco metodo ancestrale that’s he’s been planting vines of the last few years.