Torre alle Tolfe "Lunella" IGT Toscana Rosato, Tuscany, Italy 2024

FROM BOWLER WINE:

THE WINE: 80% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo from 3km outside Siena. Each variety was separately destemmed and crushed. After 4 hours of maceration, pink juice was bled off of each tank and a blend was made. This is textural, medium-deep in color, and extremely Tuscan. 3,000 bottles made. Certified organic.

THE PRODUCER: Mario Castelli and his wife Lunella Morfini bought the land in 1953 and began restoring its structures. In 1974, they made their first commercial wine sale. Today, it is owned and lovingly operated by their granddaughter, Mania Castelli. The entire 100-hectare property is run as a certified organic farm, with 13ha of vines planted between 1993 and 2014, 15ha of olive trees, and 20ha of fields for mixed grains. The remainder is woods and the nucleus of historic buildings, which includes a B&B with farmhouse apartments.

Mania found a great winemaker in Giacomo Mastretta. His first vintage at Le Tolfe was 2018. At Torre alle Tolfe, the wines are naturally more juicy and supple, coming from altitudes of around 320m on young, sandy soils from the Pliocene era, rich in oyster fossils. The terroir is very similar to Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southern part of Chianti Classico, which is about 17km east. Giacomo is right to point out that a gentler and quicker approach was needed at Le Tolfe, compared to the past in Gaiole —“I am not a copy and paste winemaker.” He also has cleverly made the two Chianti Colli Senesi wines from 100% Sangiovese. This leaves the “the blending grapes”—Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, and Colorino—to be vinified and released on their own, a rare chance to taste them in purezza.