Maison Kuentz-Bas "Crémant d'Alsace Brut" Alsace, France NV

FROM KERMIT LYNCH:

THE WINE: 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Auxerrois. Consider this Crémant d’Alsace from the historic Kuentz-Bas house in the picturesque hillside village of Husseren-les-Châteaux. Made from Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois—a blend you will only ever find in Alsace—it exudes a real sense of place that is discernible through its unique aromatics. Then there is Alsace’s cool climate, which is surprisingly dry and sunny thanks to the rain shadow effect from the Vosges Mountains. The grapes are able to ripen fully, but retain a mouthwatering acidity—a balance that makes it easy to gulp down a glass purely to slake one’s thirst.

A dignified bottle of bubbles like this is certainly suitable for special occasions, and would beautifully complement the most refined cuisine. There is a rich, toasty complexity from lees aging, which highlights the delicate aromas you’ll find in your glass: honey, nectarine, citrus, and summer flowers. But at the end of the day, it’s simply a great sparkler that needs no excuse to be uncorked. You can most definitely count on Alsace for that.

THE PRODUCER: Maison Kuentz-Bas was first established by the Kuentz family in 1795, and the domaine as we know it today was forged through a marriage that joined the Kuentz and Bas families in 1895. Nestled in the town of Husseren-les-Châteaux, it sits at one of the highest points in Alsace, and the vineyards stretch out from the village over an area of ten hectares. More than two hundred years of tradition and vineyard pedigree have made these wines perennial favorites, with the grand crus of Eichberg and Pfersigberg earning the highest esteem. However, when the family sold the property to famed vigneron Jean-Baptiste Adam in 2004, many wondered what direction the new team would take. Adam, like the estate’s former owners, has a reputation for being an advocate of Alsatian terroir, and he is the fourteenth generation to continue a family winemaking tradition that began as early as 1614. Eager to restore Kuentz-Bas to its former glory, Adam lowered yields significantly and reverted to natural methods, following organic and biodynamic approaches to vineyard work.

Meticulous attention to detail is the defining characteristic of both the viticulture and the vinification at Maison Kuentz-Bas. Winemaker Olivier Raffin, who took over direction of the cellar after Samuel Tottoli’s departure in 2017, puts a strong emphasis on both terroir and accessibility. The wines are divided into two tiers: Tradition, a fresher collection focusing on fruit character, fermented and aged on the lees in oak foudre for 6-8 months and Trois Châteaux, from the domaine’s finest vineyards. The Trois Châteaux wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel tank, then bottled and held for a year before release. Raffin embraces hard work in the vineyards and minimal work in the cellar. Reduced doses of sulfur allow for a greater expression of fruit, and a drier fermentation yields crisp, mineral-laden wines with less residual sugar. The wines are therefore more open than ever while still reflecting the unmistakable character of the vineyards that clients have come to expect from the Maison Kuentz-Bas. Alsace’s noble terroir shines through like never before in the domaine’s wines, making these among the greatest white wine values to be found.