La Raia "Pleo" Gavi, Piedmont, Italy 2023

FROM ROSENTHAL:

THE WINE: 100% Cortese. La Raia’s workhorse Gavi is produced from southwesterly exposed Cortese planted at around 400 meters altitude on the estate’s gently undulating hillsides, and harvested at 60 to 70 hectoliters per hectare. After destemming and pressing, fermentation occurs via an indigenous yeast strain cultivated from the estate’s own vineyards, and aging takes place on the fine lees for three months in stainless steel, with lees-stirring every two or three weeks as needed. Clean, clinging, and vibrant, it evokes the orchard in its aromas and flavors of fresh herbs and green apples, with complicating notes of lemon zest and sea salt.

THE PRODUCER: La Raia's wines are not boundary-pushing “auteur” Gavi; rather, they capture the fresh, likable, mineral-driven qualities that make Gavi so popular, yet with much greater depth and energy than is commonly encountered in the category. A fully functioning biodynamic farm, La Raia encompasses 180 hectares, with 48 hectares planted to grapevines and the remainder devoted to pastures and to woodlands of chestnut, elder, and acacia which teem with wildlife. La Raia was acquired in 2003 by Giorgio Rossi Cairo, who immediately converted the farm to biodynamics and obtained Demeter certification in 2007. Run today by Giorgio’s young and deeply committed son Piero, La Raia’s embrace of biodynamics extends far beyond winegrowing: they have a Waldorf school on the premises, as well as a home-delivery grocery business supplying organically grown produce to local clients.