Julian Haart "1000L" Riesling, Mosel, Germany 2023

FROM VOM BODEN:

THE WINE: This is legally Trocken and sourced from 25-year-old vines in the Grand Cru Goldtröpfchen vineyard. The “1,000L” is so-named because it is a wine that was, originally, a chosen Fuder – a 1,000L barrel. The entire barrel was bought, and that was that. The wines is always brisk, tense with high-toned citrus, good minerality.

THE PRODUCER: Julian’s first vineyard purchase was a very serious parcel, only around 8,000 square meters (0.8 hectares) right in the filet of the Grand Cru site Ohligsberg, just downstream from Julian’s hometown of Piesport. The following year (2011), Haart expanded the estate with two Grand Cru sites, the Goldtröpfchen and Schubertslay (photographed below), both in Piesport. The Goldtröpfchen parcels include terraces established in the early 20th century and the Schuberstlay, one of the smallest single-vineyards in all of the Mosel with only about one hectare under vine, flaunts ungrafted vines over 100 years old. This is serious terroir… and very labor-intensive, very expensive terroir to farm. So, beginning with vintage 2018 Julian handed the Schubertslay vineyard over to Keller. In return, with vintage 2018, Julian began making a small amount of wine from parcels that Keller helped him source in the Rheinhessen, including in the Frauenberg and Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott vineyards.