Bera Vittorio e Figli "Canelli" Moscato, Piedmont, Italy 2024

FROM LOUIS/DRESSNER:

THE WINE: Canelli is the historic cradle of Moscato d'Asti production and Bera lies in the heart of Canelli. The Bera family was the first to estate-bottle Moscato d'Asti, starting in 1964. As of recently, the highest classification for this overcommercialized category of wine is now the elevated, quality-oriented DOCG Canelli, a positive development fought for by the Beras. 2023 is the first vintage in which their Moscato d'Asti is labeled as a Moscato DOCG Canelli.

Bera's sparkling Moscato is distinct in a variety of ways. Their focus on the quality of the vineyard work and the resulting fruit is unique. The only variety of Muscat planted on their property is the superior Petits Grains. The vines average around 40 years old and they have been farmed without chemicals forever (the farming is certified-organic). They grow on a steep south-southeast-facing slope on calcareous soils, allowing the grapes to ripen quite fully while maintaining freshness thanks to the limestone influence. High ripeness and high acidity is vital to the character of the wine. A perpetual strong breeze tempers the heat and helps keep the bunches healthy. Cover crops--varying in their make-up from vintage to vintage depending on the needs of the vines--grow between the rows. Bera's yields are naturally quite low. Harvest is manual, with rigorous sorting in the vineyard into small bins.

THE PRODUCER: The estate dates back to 1785, when the Bera's ancestors originally purchased some of the land from the Knights of Malta. By this time, the cultivation of grapes -- and in this area particularly Moscato grapes -- was already well-established since the 13th century (and once again we are indebted to those reviled Crusaders for their faithful spreading of the word “Grape” to every corner of the known world they traveled to!) By the end of the 18th century -and continuing the 19th and 20th centuries- the fame of Moscato (read: Asti Spumante) spread worldwide -- and so did slipshod production methods. With few exceptions, the bulk standardization of this wine has been the norm ever since.

The Bera family is different. This was the first estate to bottle and market its own wine in the Canelli region. The estate lies in Sant’Antonio di Canelli, within the region of Serra Masio, the most prestigious and ancient of the area’s Moscato production. The grapes are entirely Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and are cultivated on steep, southeast slopes of calcerous marl (of ancient oceanic origins). All of the estate is cultivated in organic viticulture with an emphasis on creating an active, healthy ecosystem. All grapes are harvested by hand and their juice is fermented without inoculations. All the winemaking is done by Alessandra's brother, Gianluigi.