Terre Secrètes "Cremant de Bourgogne" Brut, Burgundy, France NV

FROM NORTH BERKELEY

THE WINE: Terres Secretes’ many growers benefit from the region’s classic limestone soils which characterize most of the greater Mâconnais, in southern Burgundy.

Grapes are mostly harvested by hand, and are fermented in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks. Some of the winery’s higher-end cuvees, including its sparkling wines, can be fermented and briefly aged in older French oak barrels.

For the winery’s Crémant de Bourgogne wines, the wine goes through its secondary fermentation in bottle, which is the same process utilized in Champagne. Wines are aged on fine lees in bottle for two years (a longer time than usual; Crémant de Bourgogne rules require only nine months) for a Crémant of greater flavorful intensity and texture.

THE PRODUCER: Terres Secrètes is one of France’s more celebrated cooperative wineries, founded in the early 1950s and supported by dozens of talented family growers in the greater Mâconnais.

We first came across this exceptional group when sampling a bottle of Crémant de Bourgogne that we could have sworn was a fine Blanc de Noirs from the Montagne de Reims—quality from this winery based in Prissé is outstanding, in both sparkling wines and still wines.

Sourcing older-vine fruit from the Mâconnais’ top terroirs, including Vergisson, Saint-Véran and Viré-Clessé, among others, Terres Secrètes selections are indeed southern Burgundy’s best-kept secret, on quality and on price.