Seckinger "Olberg" Riesling, Pflalz, Germany 2021

FROM PORTOVINO

THE WINE: The Königsbacher Ölberg crus from two location: the northern extension of the famous Idig Grosses Gewächs / Grand Cru, and Seckinger’s holdings in Mittelhaardt’s most southern part. Located close to the forest and always exposed to the wind, nevertheless warm, concentrated wines with melting and juiciness are produced on the Ölberg. On the one hand, this is due to the higher proportion of lime in the soil and the more southern orientation of the location in general.

Juicy and mineral; hite Japanese mushrooms. Tangerine; kumquat. Hint of caramel covered green apple.

THE PRODUCER: Seckinger’s wines have some producers in southern Pfalz scratching their heads, meanwhile Germany’s new generation of sommeliers are sipping gleefully. Was geht? Here’s a biodynamic Pfalz producer taking cues from the natural Chablis and Jura ouillé or topped-up contingent, as it digs into the terroir of their historic vineyards of mostly red sandstone (buntsandstein). Aber hallo! Seckinger’s making some outstandingly rakish Riesling – bone dry, hazy and savoury! What’s lovely to see at Seckinger is the family and thirsty friends pitching in to help during harvest, and throughout the year. The three Seckinger brothers work on all aspects of the winery, with Lukas and Philipp mostly in the vineyards, and Jonas taking the lead for crafting the wines in the cellar.