Moritz Kissinger "O Ohm" White 2022, Rheinhessen, Germany

FROM VOM BODEN

THE WINE: An “Ohm,” if you’ve forgotten from your high school science class (as I had), is a measure of electrical resistance. In the case of both the red and the white, there is no resistance to this energy, this current. The white is a 50/50 blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay with a few days of maceration. The wine is saline, with waxy citrus fruit, lemon pith and herbs. This is not an “orange wine;” it is finer and has more definition and clarity than that suggests. To me, one would have to look perhaps to the Jura to contextualize this wine.

THE PRODUCER: Moritz is a fourth-generation winemaker, he is only the second generation in his family to bottle his own wines; his father began before him in 1986. The family estate is about 14 hectares total, though Moritz is only farming around two hectares at the moment for his own production. While this will likely grow, for the moment these are very rare bottles of wine.