Domaine Etienne Delarche "Pernand-Vergelesses Sous Frétille" 1er Cru Blanc, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France 2022

FROM NORTH BERKELEY

THE WINE: A complex, full-bodied premier cru that faces south, enjoying the sun all day long; its white/gray marl soils reminds of grand cru Corton-Charlemagne.

It’s easy to miss the petite hamlet of Pernand-Vergelesses, hiding behind bulk of the noble Corton hill. Yet this Côte de Beaune village, with its impeccable vineyards, is a treasure trove of refined Burgundy wines. For more than three generations, the Delarche family has crafted authentic, earthy and expressive Burgundy in Pernand, much under the radar of the Burgundy cognoscenti. Yet Delarche Burgundy offers a clarity and purity of flavor that is captivating; whites are creamy and concentrated, taking a cue from Corton-Charlemagne, while reds are spicy and refined, seductive from the moment they’re bottled yet able to age effortlessly for years.

THE PRODUCER: Burgundy from Domaine Delarche stands as an example of what great wine can and should be: both memorable and affordable. We first came across the family’s tiny cellars in Pernand-Vergelesses in the early 1990s, and honestly couldn’t believe what we tasted. Hidden away in this peaceful valley in the shadow of the noble hill of Corton was certainly the Côte de Beaune’s best-kept secret—gorgeous wines made by an honest family for prices that reminded of decades past.

Delarche Burgundy offers a clarity and purity of flavor that is endlessly captivating. Whites are creamy and concentrated, taking a cue from grand cru Corton-Charlemagne; reds are spicy and refined, delicious from the moment they’re bottled to years later, when you pop the cork on a perfectly cellared grand cru born, from vines planted by family hands.

Vines are cared for as closely to organic principles as possible, but the estate is not certified. All grapes are harvested by hand.

For reds, Pinot Noir grapes are destemmed and fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks. Wines are aged in French oak barrels, with no more than 30% new wood, for 12 to 15 months.

For whites, Chardonnay grapes are destemmed and pressed delicately in a horizontal, pneumatic press. Juice is fermented on indigenous yeasts in older French oak barrels; the estate’s Corton-Charlemagne is fermented and aged in new oak. All wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Winemaker Etienne Delarche learned well from his winemaking father, Philippe, who sadly passed away early in 2007. Having completed his studies in Beaune as well as traveled the world to explore winemaking in other climates and cultures, Etienne in a few short years has transformed this modest family domaine into one of the Côte de Beaune’s top names.