Domaine du Margalleau "Vouvray Brut" Chenin Blanc, Loire Valley, France NV

FROM NORTH BERKELEY

THE WINE: Made in the style of fine Champagne, this pure Chenin Blanc sparkling wine is aged for a year in bottle on fine lees. Notes of warm honey, lemon curd and white flowers; almonds, citrus and graham cracker flavors. Zero dosage.

THE PRODUCER: As taut as a violin bow string or as lush as a symphonic finale—there are few grapes as deliciously varied in temperament as is Chenin Blanc from Vouvray. Domaine de Margalleau, with four generations of winemakers dedicated exclusively to Chenin Blanc, is the source of Vouvray’s most expressive examples of this native grape, whether bone dry, semi-sweet or sparkling.

The Pieaux family has for decades crafted refined Chenin Blanc wines from the region’s chalky and mineral-rich “tuffeau” soils (the same stones used to build the region’s legendary chateaus). The family vineyards also contain a good amount of flint stone (found also in Sancerre) that adds more complex aromas and enhances the wines’ already lively mineral core.

What we’ve found particularly captivating here is the equal respect with which the brothers Pieaux treat their still and sparkling wines. Too often sparkling Vouvray is an afterthought, made with under-ripe grapes and sold cheaply. Margalleau reserves its finest grapes for its Vouvray Brut, made in the style of Champagne—so much so that you’d think you were enjoying a fine Blanc de Blancs.