Clos du Tue-Boeuf "Frileuse" Cheverny Blanc, Loire Valley, France 2022

FROM LOUIS/DRESSNER:

THE WINE: 1/3 each Sauvignon Blanc/Fié Gris/Chardonnay. The name of the site, Frileuse, roughly translates to "little cold one", a nod to the flat, frost-prone nature of this vineyard. It is within the Clos du Tue-Boeuf in a sector that borders the Château de Frileuse. Thierry's grandfather used to be the château's farmer. These three varieties are co-planted in one 3.8-hectare estate site, Fié Gris being the historical name for Sauvigon Gris, itself an old variation of Sauvignon Blanc originating in Bordeaux. Since Frileuse lies within the original Clos du Tue-Boeuf (which is in fact a clos), the estate name features prominently at the top of the label along with the estate's emblem of a cow with wings. This is how the Puzelat visually distinguish their historic land in Cheverny.

THE PRODUCER: Since the Middle Ages, there have been records about the lieu-dit "le Tue-Boeuf" and its excellent wines which were enjoyed by the local nobility and the kings of France; the family name Puzelat is mentioned in 15th century documents. History, though, is not the story here. It's about two brothers, Jean-Marie and Thierry Puzelat, who tend their 10 hectare family estate in Les Montils (part of the Cheverny AOC) and rent four hectares in a village nearby to produce AOC Touraine. Jean-Marie was joined on the estate by his younger brother Thierry in the early 90's and they began converting their vines to organic viticulture.

Clos du Tue-Boeuf, along with Marcel Richaud, Dard and Ribo, Yvon Metras and a handful of others, were at the heart of the nascent natural wine movement in mid-90's Paris. They are undoubtedly the impetus for spreading this philosophy in the Loire, which remains a hotbed for the style to this day. After an illustrious, 40+ year career, Jean-Marie retired following the 2018 vintage. Thierry is now fully at the helm of the estate and was recently joined by his daughter Zöe.