Bodegas Ponce "Clos Lojen" Bobal, Castilla-La Mancha, Spain 2023

FROM T EDWARD:

THE PRODUCER: At Bodegas Ponce S.L. Juan Antonio Ponce taps a network of old vineyards throughout the southwestern Manchuela region, specializing in fresh renditions of the rustic, notoriously difficult, Bobal grape variety. Ponce didn’t choose a career in winemaking on a whim – life among the vines has been his lifelong endeavor.

In 2005, at just 23 years old, Juan Antonio brought that knowledge back home to Manchuela and realized his long-awaited dream to start a family winery. His father contributed some land he owned in the region, and the two began farming it together. In their certified organic vineyards, Ponce and his father plant trees and vegetation native to the Mediterranean, encouraging healthy biodiversity for the vines.

They farm traditionally, avoiding irrigation whenever possible, and as they’ve grown, they’ve constructed their buildings with energy-conscious materials and air conditioning. Ponce shows a mastery of the native Bobal grape variety, but also uses varieties like Albilla, Moravia Agria, Monastrell, and Garnacha. They hand-pick everything earlier than most regional producers to give their wines, particularly Bobal, fresh acidity.

THE WINE: After working at Cia de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez Juan Antonio Ponce returned home. The project started in 2005, he was 23, just 11 barrels, and a loan. The family’s wine growing tradition dates back to Juan Antonio’s great-grandfather, although his father never made wine–he used to sell the grapes to the local cooperative. “Ponce says. “The area is full of prejudices, people lack self-confidence. These days Manchuela is probably the most interesting appellation in central Spain, led by Ponce. This is a lively and juicy great value wine. Fruit-driven with a very expressive nose. Raspberries and blackberries balanced with savory notes. 2021 vintage is more austere and sharper. More mineral than fruit-driven.