Albert Boxler "Edelzwicker Réserve" Alsace, France 2021

FROM KERMIT LYNCH:

THE WINE: As is typical in Alsace, Jean Boxler makes almost every one of his thirty or so cuvées from a single grape variety, ranging from 100% Riesling to 100% Pinot Noir. The Edelzwicker, by contrast, is a rare blend (one of two produced by Boxler) and often features fruit from his grand cru parcels. He says, “To find the right balance for the Edelzwicker Réserve, I cannot hesitate to steal from my more prestigious cuvées.” Think of this bottling as his musical supergroup. Its purpose is to showcase what an Alsatian white tastes like when some of the region’s best grapes—which usually shine on their own—come together and harmonize. The result is a floral, luscious, and medium-bodied masterpiece, with notes of orchard fruit and tangerine. Incredibly versatile at table, it would be a match made in heaven with Chris Lee’s soufflé or a baked fish with grilled vegetables, but it would also complement a variety of Chinese, Indian, or Thai dishes that have a little spice.

THE PRODUCER: The small family domaine in France that works traditionally using techniques and savoir faire passed down across multiple generations is under serious threat today. Consolidation, technology, regulation, foreign investment, globalization, and many other factors (all in the name of progress), threaten the great agricultural tradition of winegrowing in France, arguably the world’s greatest winegrowing culture. Few domaines in France embody this way of life more ably and proudly than Domaine Albert Boxler in Niedermorschwihr. Jean Boxler, many generations removed from his ancestor of the same name that moved here from Switzerland in 1673, currently rules the roost at this humble yet incredibly exciting domaine. Intense and serious about his land, his craft, and his wine, Jean is the genius behind what are certainly some of the finest white wines in Alsace (and the world).

The family’s holdings are centered around the ancient village of Niedermorschwihr in the Haut-Rhin, dominated by the imposing granite hillside grand cru, Sommerberg. Jean vinifies micro-parcels within this cru separately, de-classifying some into his Réserve wines and producing multiple bottlings of Sommerberg from the different lieux-dits depending on the vintage. Sommerberg gives racy, intensely structured, very long-lived wines. Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Blanc are the specialties of the domaine, while Boxler also produces one of Alsace’s best Crémants (and Edelzwickers), an incredible Gewurztraminer grown in limestone, and some of the most hauntingly pure Vendanges Tardives and SGNs in all of Alsace. If that weren’t enough, the Boxlers also own land in the powerful grand cru Brand, the ultimate counterpart to their holdings in Sommerberg.

The Sommerberg hillside terminates in Jean’s driveway, making it easy to basically live in the vineyards, ensuring exceptionally healthy fruit year after year. After harvest, the wines are vinified and aged in old foudres in a small cellar underneath the family home until bottling. Not much has changed over the centuries; not much has needed to. Tasting through the entire range of Boxler’s wines is ample proof of the fact that Alsace, along with Burgundy, is the source of the world’s most complex, exciting white wines, and will probably always be.