In two weeks, we'll take a much needed day off to sit down at the table with friends and family. Or maybe you'll just sit down alone with a book and a glass of wine. Either way, this is a good thing to do.
I have a hard time sitting down. Even when I'm hosting, I end up standing, zhuzhing some out of place detail, sweeping away crumbs, filling a glass, getting started on dishes, making a note to myself about a thing I forgot to do at the wine/pizza shop or a future menu I'm writing. I've stood so much over the last five years that I get a tingly feeling in my left foot when I sit down. (I should get that checked out probably.) I'm going to try really hard to sit down this year. What's the point of setting a table if you aren't going to sit down at it?
This month, in an effort to sit down together, the Patron Saint team has mused on what they're putting on the table and what they're pairing it with. From foraged apple cider and a goat cheese tart to classic white Burgundy and salsa verde, we're doing our best to take it easy and take care of our people.
Patois "Parallel Voicing" Virginia, USA NV
Wandering in the shop, you may have noticed the line of shelves next to the sparkling section dedicated to cider. I am happy to report that over the last 15ish years of bartending, I've watched customers' reactions to cider progress from “Oh no” to “I had one I liked once” to “I really like cider.” What a wonderful shift for cider and us.
In the rising tide of cideries are new champions for apples—lay to rest Johnny Appleseed—advocates revitalizing seasoned trees, stewarding the biodiversity of each plot, and producing ciders that showcase terroir. The duo at Patois is part of that change. Based in Crozet, Virginia, Patrick Collins and Danielle LeCompte work with wild fruit sourced from all over Virginia. Everything is done by hand with an emphasis on fruit and time.
Parallel Voicing is a non-vintage co-ferment of crab apples, heirloom apples, and vidal grapes. The vidal (a hybrid grape of ugni blanc and a native north American varietal) is from 2020 and aged under voile (a storied yeast that lends this cider a distinct buckwheat-tinged beauty), while the apples are from 2022. It’s got a bright zingy grapefruit high note, a tingly bubble, and soft pear and spice on the finish. (The label depicts an apple blossom kaleidescope of the Everly Brothers FYI.)
In my mind, this cider/wine is happiest at the beginning or end of a meal, and, being the Midwest woman I am, I paired it with a caramelized onion, potato, and goat cheese galette. This could be an appetizer, dinner, and dessert; I have no shame. The zingy acidity of the wine cuts through the richness of the cheese and puff pastry while the caramelized onion and fig spread reveal the whisper of spice on the finish.
Patois believes in balance as a core and guiding principle. I will seek my balance in this pairing and some long decadent naps this holiday season. —Cassandra Vachon
Château des Vergers "Aux Vergers" Beaujolais, France 2021
Beaujolais is a classic holiday moment. Admission: I tend to rail against "the classics" (and the holidays), but I also recognize that one must examine what is beneath the instict to oppose. Most of the time, my inclination is due to a fundamental question about how "X-thing" became a classic in the first place and why it persists as such. And often, the reason circles back to a hierarchy of structural power. If you've been here for some time, you know I like to poke around the ribs of wine's foundations, and what would an American Thanksgiving be without the lefty aunt's mid-dinner diatribe against the powers that be? It me.
Beaujolais could be considered a new classic within the region of Burgundy (France's very long history of wine considered), but within Beaujolais itself, Lantignié—the hopeful eleventh cru of the AOC—is a contemporary illustration of the shifting of systems and labels. Though it has yet to be officially recognized, Lantignié is vying for cru status, and leading the charge, along with 18 other growers, is Cosima Bassouls of Château des Vergers. Bassouls uses agroforestry and cover crops to guide her hand-picked grapes into each vintage. Her 70-year-old vines are in touch with the blueschist bedrock, providing pretty muscle, wonderful for all the Thanksgiving foods. "Aux Vergers" is blue-fruited, spicy, earthen, atmospheric and autumnal; if you ignore our sub-tropical temps, it could conjure up crisp leaves and hikes up sun-dappled trails.
"Aux Vergers" was one of the first wines I put on the shelf when we opened last year. It's edging around classic, forging new territory, dreamed up by a woman questioning foundations. (It me.) Pair it with your dry-brined turkey, babes. —Leslie Pariseau
Domaine de la Cadette "La Châtelaine" Vézelay Blanc 2022
I have been in the service industry for quite a minute now, and have not been able to visit family for the holidays in many a moon, so I host an open house for friends and fellow industry gems who can’t or would rather not go home. I never really know how many people will show up, so I make a big ol’ mess of things and hope it is enough…and somehow it always magically is. Holiday pairings are an absolute favorite of mine and classic white Burgundy + the salt and heat of salsa verde feels just about right.
Jean and Catherine Montanet began their vineyards in the late 80s selling fruit to a local cooperative, which was normal for this portion of Northwest Burgundy. In 1997, Vézelay was given its own AOC and the Montanets began farming organically, splitting from the coop to start bottling their own fruit. Their son, Valentin, has taken over the vineyards and has followed in his parents’ footsteps.
Vézelay, near Chablis, receives lovely sun exposure allowing the fruit to really ripen. These white wines tend to have much more body and stone fruit notes than one would expect from a chardonnay so far north. There is a delicious richness with these wines, very aromatic (think apricot, and pear, and citrus), and beautiful mineral notes on the back end. Their depth can stand up to pork or turkey, perfect for the main event.
Salsa Verde with Chicharron
Serve with rice, chips, or alone. Also great with enchiladas...
This Salsa de Tomatillo recipe is from the Oaxaca cookbook by Bricia Lopez (so beautiful, so informative). Personally, I double the recipe and fold in 2 pounds of chopped chicharron from the meat counter at Ideal (near the fried chicken) or you can grab some pre-packaged ones.
1. Place one pound of husked and rinsed tomatillos, 1 serrano chile (stem removed), and 1/4 cup chopped white onion on a rimmed baking sheet and broil for 20 minutes, mixing the vegetables half way through to make sure they have an even char. Add 2 cloves peeled garlic and broil for another 5 minutes.
Transfer to a blender and add 1/4 cup cilantro and 2 tablespoons of water. Blend until smooth and salt to taste. Will last in the refrigerator for up to a week to make ahead during stressful holidaze times. —Allison Whittinghill
Signoraginni "Vivienne" Tuscany, Italy 2022
I love food. I love to eat it, cook it, watch shows about it, handle it at a farmers market, and plot any number of scenarios in which I can be around it ASAP. I come from a long line of passionate cooks that taught me to savor every moment in the kitchen, even if you're just helping to stir.
I also love to work. Those same cooks taught me that if you want that sharp cheddar, you gotta make that dough. So, like many dedicated service industry professionals during the holiday season, before heading to large gatherings, I find myself scrambling to pull something respectable together to savor over war stories with my fellow friends-in-service.
Luckily, New Orleans has some great natural wine shops and a decent Trader Joe's.
Step 1: The Bottle. A soft, balanced orange wine is perfect for pairing with almost anything on any table. One of our favorites at the shop is the Signoraginni "Vivienne." Giorgia Salierno forged a successful career in the fashion industry, but was drawn to the soil of picturesque Cortana, Tuscany where she has cultivated native grape varieties to convey the terroir and her own energy. "Vivienne," named for the trailblazing patron saint of fem fashion, Vivienne Westwood, is trebbiano toscana and malvasia co-fermented and macerated on the skins for 15 days. With supple tannins, aromas of jasmine, a palate full of dried apricots, and a gorgeous manuka honey hue, it's a bottle that urges a meander around the appetizer table.
Step 2: Cheese and crackers, but make it sassy. Get yourself out to Metry and head straight for the Trader Joe's cheese section. Affordable pre-cut delicacies await. One of my favorite show stoppers is the Saint André triple cream. Grab a box of fig-olive crackers, a pack of Iberico ham, and you're out the automatic doors before you know it. My final secret weapon is the Earth Truffle Bjorn Corn from our shop. ((We also carry an incredible two-year aged Dutch gouda.)
A bottle cool enough for your nerd friends, a platter to graze upon, a few minutes to catch up with your people: the ingredients to one of my favorite recipes. —Beth Altenbernd
Eyrie "Trousseau" Willamette Valley, Oregon 2021
Trousseau is widely bemoaned by winemakers in the Jura (France-land) for a fickle nature and extremely slow ripening. It craves more sun than its berry brethren poulsard and pinot noir, yet, when left on the vine for even a day or two past its sweet spot, can become overripe and difficult to vinify without producing overly boozy plonk.
Much like the drunk uncle who makes his first old-fashioned two hours before the rest of us, trousseau can be hard to handle. Unpredictable yet endearing, sometimes a bit feral but still welcome among your friends and family at the holiday table.
This particular expression from The Eyrie Vineyards, a historic estate in the Willamette Valley that put American pinot noir on the map, shows trousseau’s potential when treated with patience and care—something the Lett family practices supremely well with its no-till philosophy of farming. Baking spice and rhubarb balance with a savory undertone and black pepper bite. Pair with the below cranberry sauce (it’s better than the canned stuff) and your favorite turkey preparation.
I love the wines of Jura (and the Williamette’s Dundee Hills apparently), particularly trousseau thanks to its trickster nature. Always keeping you on your toes, just like Uncle Ronnie.
Spiced Cranberry Sauce
Put 3/4 cup Eyrie Trousseau, 1 cup white sugar, 1 cup light brown sugar, 6 whole cloves, 6 whole allspice, 2 cinnamon sticks, 1 star anise, a thumb’s width of peeled ginger, and a peel of half and orange (no pith), in a saucepan over medium heat until sugar dissolves.
Bring to a boil for a minute or so. Reduce heat to medium low and stir until thickened and glossy (about 10 mins). Strain. Return liquid to pan and add 1 12-ounce bag of washed FRESH cranberries to syrup. Cook over medium until berries burst (5 minutes). Cool then transfer to a bowl and refrigerate. Best made at least 1 day ahead. —Drew Clowney
HAPPY WHATEVER YOU CELEBRATE.