La Raia "Vigna Madonnina" Gavi Riserva, Piedmont, Italy 2021

FROM ROSENTHAL:

THE WINE: Representing less than 10% of their production, La Raia’s Gavi Riserva—one of only four examples of a Riserva in the entire zone—comes from 20-year-old vines planted in the chalky white soils of the southeast-facing Madonnina vineyard. Harvested 10 to 14 days later than the basic Gavi, it spends an entire year on its fine lees (compared to three months for the basic) in stainless steel before bottling, with an additional six months of bottle aging before being put up for sale. This is broad yet focused on the nose, with an intense Chablis-like chalkiness; the palate possesses concentration and cling, with the chalk echoing and carrying the flavors of apricot and apples through an impressively lengthy finish.

THE PRODUCER: La Raia's wines are not boundary-pushing “auteur” Gavi; rather, they capture the fresh, likable, mineral-driven qualities that make Gavi so popular, yet with much greater depth and energy than is commonly encountered in the category. A fully functioning biodynamic farm, La Raia encompasses 180 hectares, with 48 hectares planted to grapevines and the remainder devoted to pastures and to woodlands of chestnut, elder, and acacia which teem with wildlife. La Raia was acquired in 2003 by Giorgio Rossi Cairo, who immediately converted the farm to biodynamics and obtained Demeter certification in 2007. Run today by Giorgio’s young and deeply committed son Piero, La Raia’s embrace of biodynamics extends far beyond winegrowing: they have a Waldorf school on the premises, as well as a home-delivery grocery business supplying organically grown produce to local clients.