Ganevat "De Toute Beauté" Vin de France Rouge, Jura, France 2022

FROM KERMIT LYNCH:

THE WINE: Hold a glass of this aptly named cuvée, meaning “exceptional beauty,” up to the light to witness an incandescent red hue so luminous it glows. Supernatural, well-made reds of this caliber are such a thrill. One sip will chase you to the limit of a steep ledge, let you sway in the wind a bit while you savor the terroir, and then plant you firmly back on Earth with a vibrant burst. This blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir is best enjoyed when cool to the touch.

THE PRODUCER: Jean-François Ganevat comes from a long line of winegrowers, dating as far back as 1650. He creates a stunning number of cuvées, ranging between thirty-five and forty every year! His methodology goes far beyond the details of the average vigneron. For some, his process would be maddening, as each cuvée calls for a highly individualized élévage. All of his wines are de-stemmed by hand, each cluster carefully trimmed with scissors. Committed to minute doses of sulfur, he ages many of his whites on the lees for extended periods of time. Jean-François Ganevat is a master of his craft, one of the true magicians of the eclectic. To say that his grapes are spun into gold would not be far from the truth; they are entirely otherworldly.